A subject to the written almost everything already and was told - you might say. So why even more chatter about it? Now, for the simple reason that current events of this topic again and again alive and begged for a comment, whatsoever, cry ... Imagine the following scenario: A 19 year old young professional - made famous by visits of the most difficult routes already in recent years, as well as term success in international competitions - and all this in combination with a well-functioning public relations machinery, is looking for a new project ... But not just any project, a real cracker it should be. Something back to him with a blow to the memory of the hysteria, but also ignorance prone, international circus climbing calls back. Because that's the point here - as we have recently seen so beautiful even with the football World Cup - the show itself, shining with a few good actions, they become a bit of good PR and you've got it increased its market value or, at least for a conserved two years and may nibble a bit of the pie ... I do not think different - though in other dimensions - it is known professionally for mountain sports. We are not talking more so from a marginal or niche sport - the cloak of innocence is thrown off the mountain climbing in all its facets a long time. Meanwhile, we'll come around not to speak of a mass sport. And so that is obviously good to make money - the outdoor industry has for years, in comparison to other sports industries, the most consistent with the growth. And all of these increases would hardly be possible were it not for the appropriate audience, welches natürlich nicht nur in den gleichen – möglichst an irgendeiner Stelle mit den Buchstaben e-x-t-r-e-m bestickten – Gore-Tex Jacken wie ihre heroes glänzen möchte jeden Sonntag, sondern auch von eben jenen – ihren Helden weiterhin bespielt werden möchte... Man verleiht dadurch nicht nur den eigenen Bemühungen im Hobby-Alltag etwas mehr Glanz – wenn schon nicht Patagonien, dann zumindest die Jacke in die Alex Huber in Patagonien rein gepupst hat... Man hat damit auch ein Schnäppchen im doppelten Sinne gemacht – das elitäre Gefühl für´s Wochenende gibt’s auf der einen Seite und dazu noch einen Platz in der Jury zu entscheiden wer oder was dazugehört – zur Elite (denn only its sponsor emblazoned on my chest ...), on the other hand .... It's like the old age, you want to protect themselves, but give the issue of the decision not entirely out of hand - et voila, the insurance mentality works for mountain sports. - If only the avalanche report would be only as secure as well, but someone will have to sue on ... 'Sorry, I schwuf from ... Back to our young professional, who has indeed not so easy. He is internationally known, already has several podium - with some national and international competitions down, but at some point it was not so correctly, the output stagnated - albeit at a very high level ... In first place were second, third and fourth, from visits at the highest levels of difficulty inspections were in very high levels of difficulty - no big difference, but a difference ... It was dance music while others who graced the front pages. And this is exactly where the perversion of this whole carousel appears as obvious as anywhere else nowadays are no good and excellent performance being recognized and acknowledged they will, albeit from a smaller - more specialized audience, they are only no longer receive homage from the mob, and thus something not so well paid that there may be a life davon reicht. Dem Mob dürstet nach Extremem – Brot und Spiele... Was also tun um seinen Platz in der Hale of Fame zu sichern!? Ausweichen in Bereiche in denen noch Lorbeeren zu verdienen sind, Bereiche die von denen die besser sind noch nicht so beackert wurden – irgend was alpines machen – man liest diese Phrase ziemlich oft mittlerweile... Und was liegt da näher als eine der bekanntesten Routen an einem der bekanntesten Berge der Welt erstmals komplett frei zu klettern? - Das wäre zweifelsohne ein Meilenstein. Doch wie das ganze angehen – der Stein der Vermarktung will natürlich schon vorher ins Rollen gebracht werden – heißt also langfristig angelegte Werbekampagnen, Internetseiten die ins Leben gerufen werden, Interviews will be conducted, Sayings want to be tapped, and of course to all be captured on celluloid. Said and done, a film crew accompanied our young hero's adventure land, porters and guides to do their ... The question is - how far you are, once clamped in such a machine - even master of himself? What decisions can be taken in its knowledge and belief, and which are removed one and how you have no control? I have been and will never be in such a situation, so that is all speculative ... But either way, I hope that even as a young (and in certain situations, safe yet inexperienced young rider) are common sense not at the gates to the National Park delivers! Who if not the protagonist of the whole event can the over-reaching influence on everything that happens in his name and on behalf of its sponsors influence? And that's what he should have done. As one whose job it is to climb, but he should know this - if not recorded on paper - there are a few rules in alpinism! Because that in it he looked so with flags and trumpets the success ... And he promptly commits (although not personally) one of the worst "rule" violations that one could imagine. There are new bolts (sixty of them!), In and around an existing route from world-renowned (though questionable ...), set ... And he and his team not sweep back to - it will hang 700m fixed rope left. With the terse justification, they would return next season and all clean ... Imagine, just once, someone hung the American Direct on the Dru, the fish of the Marmolada and the Hasse-Brandler at the Grand Peak abound with fixed ropes and let it run append an entire season. - Unimaginable, sacrilege! How much can you disqualify yourself and how you can actually other climbers and locals to offend? - Seemingly limitless ... The question why the present and of course, have done nothing in the responsibility of guides and even have forced even the decisions in this (wrong) direction - they should know exactly but as a guide to the seriousness of this breach - probably forever remain unanswered ...
Source: http://www.alpinist.com/media/ALP10/cerrotorre.jpg
No. 1 Maestris controversial route
